The General's Shadow

The 20th Century

I dedicate this chapter to my dear friends: Dedicated toMr. David Valley, the last Executive Director of the MacArthur Honor Guard Association, who adopted me as his "Army Daughter" and entrusted me with the untold truths of history, andMr. Donald Versaw, who was captured in the Philippines after the General was forced to leave them behind.

Why MacArthur?
Why here, in the Kanmon Straits?

And, why did someone like me

—living outside the boundaries of society—have to be the one to tell this story?

It all began with a 'screening trouble' at the MacArthur Memorial in Norfolk. A documentary that failed to play. The untold stories of the BOYS. To me, it feels like a letter from the General, drifting across time and space to wash ashore here, in the Kanmon Straits."

In late 2012, I created a booklet titled"Kitakyushu: Wartime and Post-Wartime—We Remember You."I distributed it in February 2023 at an event celebrating the 50th anniversary of Kitakyushu City. My motivation was simple: although Kitakyushu's modern technology and economy were built upon a foundation of military history since the Meiji era, that history is rarely discussed.

While researching the "Memorial Cross"—a Korean War monument in Kokura—I discovered that the 24th Infantry Division had been stationed there. When I contacted their veterans' association, I was introduced to Mr. David Valley, who expressed a strong wish to connect with me.

Around the same time, I learned that a convention for theAmerican Defenders of Bataan and Corregidor Memorial Society(ADBCMS), to which my friend Mr. Donald Versawbelonged, was being held in Norfolk, Virginia—a sister city of Kitakyushu. Feeling a mysterious pull, I traveled to Norfolk in May as a representative of Donald (who could not attend) and was invited to sing at the convention.

When I told David about this, he insisted:"The MacArthur Memorial is in Norfolk. I will contact them myself; you must visit it."

This journey took me to New York (my second home), Norfolk for the convention, San Diego to visit David Valley, and Los Angeles to see Monica Lewis. Looking back, it feels as though I was being guided by the General himself.

My departure began at Fukuoka Airport—located on the former site of Itazuke Air Base, where the Smith Force first deployed to Korea. My first stop was Hawaii, where I visited theUSS Missouri, the battleship where Japan signed the surrender documents.

In New York, I stayed with my friend Bob Cranshaw, a legendary jazz bassist and a veteran who served in the Korean War as a Black soldier. He was a founding member of theSaturday Night Live Band and played alongside giants like Sonny Rollins for decades.He once told me a story on a subway platform in Tokyo—about the day his friend John Belushi didn't show up because he had passed away, and how that tragedy led Bob to walk away from drugs forever. During my stay in NY, another old friend invited me to see the USS Intrepid. I knew nothing of this aircraft carrier then, but later discovered it played a vital role in the General's second Philippine campaign.

The most striking moment occurred in Norfolk. The MacArthur Memorial hosted a screening of a documentary about POWs created by veterans and their families. As we sat in the hall, a technical glitch suddenly stopped the film. The reaction from the former POWs and their families was intense—an overwhelming, visceral anger. It was then I truly understood: these were the men left behind in the Philippines when MacArthur made his famous escape, promising"I shall return." They were the ones who became prisoners of Japan.

Those very prisoners were eventually shipped to the port ofMoji.

Furthermore, when the Korean War broke out, the 24th Infantry Division—stationed closest to Korea—was the first to be sent to the front under MacArthur's command.

In Kokura, there is a dark, unspoken history known as the"Kokura Riot" (the model for Seicho Matsumoto's'Kuroji no E'). Black American soldiers, arriving by train from Gifu, were pushed to a breaking point by the combination of racial discrimination and the terror of being sent to a "land of death." On July 12, 1950, under MacArthur's orders, they were loaded onto makeshift fishing boats and coal ships at Moji Port and sent across to Busan, vanishing into the brutal battles of the "Forgotten War."

In this chapter, I introduce these three overlooked stories of the Korean War and invite you to walk with me through my journey—and my blog—as we uncover the truth together.


The Korean War


The Pacific War

Memorials

You may tell them, "I Remember You"

Kokura Memorial Cross

Kokura Memorial Cross

After the Pacific War, the 24th Infantry Division, commanded byMajor General William F. Dean, was stationed in Kokura. Due to Kokura's proximity to South Korea, this Division was among the first sent to the Korean War (the first sent regiment). The division suffered 3,602 dead and wounded, and 2,962 captured, including its commander, Major General Dean.

North Korean forces proved extremely tough, and the UN forces faced significant challenges. Fallen soldiers who were temporarily buried in South Korea often had to be exhumed when the situation changed. Consequently, Kokura was chosen as the location for transporting these casualties for processing and returning them to their home countries. This led to a large number of casualties passing through Kokura, prompting the construction of the Korean War Memorial, the "Memorial Cross," in 1951.

Links

Access Information

Taking a taxi is recommended. Please ask the driver to wait while you are visiting. You will not be able to catch a cab at the spot.

From Kokura Station: about 2.5 miles (4km)
From Kokura Castle: about 3 miles (4.8km)
Please show this to the taxi driver:

Taxi direction screenshot
Quarantine station

The remains of the quarantine station for Allied POWs

At the end of November 1945, four "hell ships" arrived simultaneously. Approximately 60 patients with infectious diseases, including dysentery, were placed in the isolation ward of the Shimonoseki Quarantine Station in Enoura-cho, Hikoshima, Shimonoseki City, located opposite Moji. This facility served as a branch of the Moji camp, though its operational period is unclear. Residents recall that POWs, after a period of relative calm, were transferred to a second camp near Hikoshima Enoura-cho 2-chome, but further details are unknown.

Access Information

Take the Ganryujima Ferryfrom Karato Pier in Shimonoseki or Marine Gate Moji in Mojiko. Once on the island, walk to its tip to view the remains of the former POW quarantine station on Hikoshima (Shimonoseki), located next to the Mitsubishi Shipyard.

Ganryujima is a small island in the Kanmon Strait. In 1612, it was the site of a famous duel between Miyamoto Musashi and Sasaki Kojiro, known as the Battle of Ganryu-jima, one of the most well-known samurai duels.